Few things capture Edinburgh quite like the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Massed pipes and drums, military bands and performers from around the world, all on the floodlit Esplanade of Edinburgh Castle with the night sky above. It is one of the most spectacular events in Scotland’s calendar, and it draws visitors from across the globe every August. If you are planning to go, sorting the right accommodation early is half the battle, and this guide explains where to stay, when to book and how to make the evening run smoothly.

About the Tattoo

The Tattoo takes place each August on the Castle Esplanade, running for around three weeks alongside the Edinburgh festivals, with performances most evenings. It is an open-air, after-dark show in one of the most dramatic settings imaginable, and it sells out well ahead every year. Check the official Tattoo website for this year’s exact dates and ticket details, and book your seats as early as you can, because the best nights go first.

Because the Tattoo coincides with the Fringe and the wider festival season, August is the busiest time in the city by a distance. That makes accommodation the thing to lock in early, ideally as soon as you have your tickets.

Book your stay as early as your tickets

The golden rule for any August visit holds double for the Tattoo: book accommodation as far ahead as possible. Demand across the city is at its yearly peak, availability shrinks fast and prices rise as the dates approach. Securing a good apartment in the autumn, winter or spring before your visit means more choice and a fairer rate.

If you are also planning to catch some Fringe shows while you are here, and most Tattoo visitors do, our Edinburgh Fringe accommodation guide is worth reading alongside this one, as the same booking advice applies.

Getting to the Castle Esplanade from Leith

The Tattoo is held at the top of the Royal Mile, at the Castle. From Western Harbour, the number 11 bus runs into the city centre and the tram is a short walk away, both reaching the centre in around 20 to 30 minutes, from where it is a walk up through the Old Town to the Esplanade. Our transport page has the details.

The Tattoo is an evening event that finishes late, when the centre is at its liveliest, so plan your route back in advance. Many guests find that having a calm apartment to return to, away from the after-show crowds, is exactly what they want at the end of a big night. If you are driving, note that parking near the Castle is not practical during the festival, so it is better to leave the car at the apartment, where we provide complimentary underground parking, and take public transport in.

Why an apartment makes the perfect Tattoo base

A serviced apartment suits a Tattoo trip better than a hotel room for a few reasons.

Space to enjoy the whole trip. You are almost certainly here for more than the show alone, so a proper living room, kitchen and separate bedrooms make the days around it far more comfortable.

A warm, comfortable return. The Tattoo is open-air and Edinburgh evenings can be cool even in August, so coming back to a spacious, cosy apartment to warm up afterwards is a real pleasure.

Room for the group. Tattoo trips are often family occasions or gatherings of friends. Our two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartments give everyone space, and our executive apartments add a touch extra for a special occasion.

Value during peak season. With your own kitchen, you save on eating out at the busiest, priciest time of year, when restaurants are booked solid. For the meals you do go out for, our best restaurants and cafés near Ocean guide will help.

Our guide to the best areas to stay in Edinburgh explains why the Leith waterfront makes such a good festival-season base: close enough to be in the middle of it all, calm enough to actually rest.

A few tips for the night itself

• Dress warmly and pack waterproofs. The Esplanade is open to the sky, so bring layers and a rain jacket whatever the forecast.
• Arrive in good time. The Old Town is busy on show nights, so allow plenty of time to get up to the Castle.
• Plan your journey home. Know your bus or tram route back before the show, when the centre is at its busiest.
• Make a day of it. Pair the Tattoo with the Fringe, a Castle visit earlier in the day, or dinner in Leith beforehand.

Make a weekend of it

The Tattoo is the centrepiece, but it is worth building a proper trip around it, especially as you are visiting during the most exciting time in the Edinburgh year. A good approach is to arrive with a day or two to spare on either side, so the show is the highlight rather than a dash in and out.

Spend a morning at Edinburgh Castle itself, so the Esplanade means even more when you return for the evening performance. Catch a Fringe show or two in the afternoons, wander the Royal Mile with its street performers, and leave time for the free pleasures of the city, from the view atop Calton Hill to a walk through the Old Town. Down on the waterfront, a visit to the Royal Yacht Britannia makes a relaxed contrast to the festival bustle, minutes from the apartment.

Evenings are for eating well. Leith has some of the best restaurants in Scotland, so book ahead during August and treat yourselves after the show, or enjoy the ease of cooking in when the centre is fully booked. Planned this way, the Tattoo becomes the jewel in a richer few days rather than a single night, and a comfortable waterfront base is what ties the whole trip together.

A note on booking terms

Festival plans can change, so it helps to know the booking terms before you commit. We offer a choice of cancellation policies and payment options at the time of booking, set out in our cancellation policy FAQ, plus a best rate guarantee when you book direct.

Frequently asked questions

When should I book accommodation for the Tattoo?

As early as possible, ideally as soon as you have your tickets. August is the busiest time in Edinburgh, so booking months ahead gives you more choice and a better rate.

Where is the best place to stay for the Tattoo?

Somewhere with an easy route to the Castle but a calm retreat for after the late-finishing show. Leith and the waterfront offer space, value and a quick link into the centre.

How do I get from Leith to the Castle Esplanade?

Take the number 11 bus or the tram into the centre, around 20 to 30 minutes, then walk up through the Old Town to the Castle.

Is the Tattoo indoors?

No. It is held on the open-air Castle Esplanade, so dress warmly and bring waterproofs whatever the weather.

Can I combine the Tattoo with the Fringe?

Absolutely, and most visitors do. Both run through August, so you can see the Tattoo in the evening and catch Fringe shows during the day. A comfortable base to rest between the two makes the packed schedule far easier.

Is there parking for the Tattoo?

Parking near the Castle is not practical during August. It is better to leave the car at your accommodation, where we provide complimentary underground parking, and take the bus or tram into the centre.

Book your Tattoo base on the waterfront

For a comfortable, well-connected base during the busiest time of the Edinburgh year, book early and stay on the Leith waterfront. Take a look at our two-bedroom apartments, then request a quote with your dates, or call the team on 0131 553 7394.