Few cities do Christmas quite like Edinburgh. As the nights draw in, the centre fills with lights, the smell of mulled wine and roasting chestnuts drifts across Princes Street, and the Edinburgh Christmas Market draws visitors from all over the world. If you are planning a festive trip, this guide covers what to see, roughly when it runs, and where to stay so you can enjoy it all without the city-centre chaos.

When is the Edinburgh Christmas Market on in East Princes Street Gardens?

Edinburgh’s Christmas festival usually runs from around the middle of November through to early January, spanning the whole festive season and into the New Year. The exact dates and opening hours change each year, and some attractions are ticketed and timed, so check the official Edinburgh’s Christmas website for this year’s programme and book the popular elements ahead before they sell out. As a rule, weekends can be crowded while weekdays are usually quieter, and Friday evenings in December are especially busy.

If you are reading this in the autumn, you are in good time to plan. Festive accommodation books up quickly, especially for December weekends and the New Year, so it pays to sort where you are staying early.

What to see and do for Christmas shopping

The heart of it all is the Christmas Market itself, traditionally set in and around East Princes Street Gardens beneath the Castle, where the markets are free to enter. Rows of wooden chalets host independent retailers alongside Scottish and European artisans, selling clothing, jewellery, handmade gifts, food and drink. It is a lovely place to explore with a hot chocolate or a glass of something warming, with the Castle lit up above you, and the food stalls are a fun festive treat.

Beyond the market stalls, the festival usually includes:

• A big wheel and fairground rides, giving you a view over the gardens and the city rooftops.
• Festive markets on George Street and around St Andrew Square, with seasonal entertainment that often includes street performances and live music.
• Ice skating, a family favourite when it features in the programme.
• Santa’s grotto and family attractions for younger visitors.
• Festive food and drink, from bratwurst and churros to mulled wine and gin.

Away from the main market, Edinburgh at Christmas has plenty more to offer. The Royal Botanic Garden’s after-dark light trail is a magical evening out, the city’s museums and galleries are warm and free, and the shops along Princes Street and George Street are at their most festive. Our roundup of things to do in a winter break in Edinburgh has more ideas for filling a December trip.

Making the most of a festive visit: food and drink highlights

A few things make a Christmas market trip run more smoothly. Go earlier in the day if you can, as the market is calmer and easier with a pushchair or younger children before the after-work and evening crowds arrive. Wrap up warmly for the winter weather, because Edinburgh in December is cold and much of the fun is outdoors. Walking between the central sites is easy, so you can explore the markets and nearby attractions on foot, including Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Botanic Garden. And leave time to simply wander, as the city is at its prettiest lit up on a crisp winter evening.

For the meals you do sit down for, book ahead, as December is a busy month for Edinburgh’s restaurants, and plan journeys carefully in case winter conditions affect transport. Down in Leith, some of the city’s best kitchens make a cosy retreat after a day at the market, and our guide to the best restaurants and cafés near Ocean will help you choose.

Where to stay for the Edinburgh Christmas Market

Staying right in the centre puts you among the crowds and the noise, and at the highest prices of the year. A smarter option for many visitors is a calm, spacious base a short journey away, with an easy run in to the lights. That is exactly what the Leith waterfront offers.

From Ocean Serviced Apartments in Western Harbour, the tram and the number 11 bus reach the city centre in around 20 to 30 minutes, and the tram sets you down close to the market at St Andrew Square and Princes Street. You spend the day among the festive bustle, then come home to a peaceful two-bedroom apartment by the water, warm up, cook a meal if you like, and rest properly for the next day. Our transport page has the routes, and our guide to the best areas to stay in Edinburgh makes the fuller case for the waterfront over the centre.

For a festive trip in particular, an apartment brings real comfort. There is room for the whole family, a kitchen for warming breakfasts and easy evenings when the centre is fully booked, and space to store the Christmas shopping. Our two-bedroom apartments suit families and groups, while the executive apartments add something extra for a special festive break.

Driving in for Christmas? Park at the apartment

Parking in central Edinburgh over the festive season is difficult and expensive, and many hotels charge nightly for it. Ocean includes complimentary underground parking on site, so you can drive up, leave the car securely at the apartment, and take the tram or bus in to the market. It saves money and a great deal of stress at the busiest time of year, and it means you can add a festive day trip along the coast or into the countryside whenever you fancy one.

Combine it with Hogmanay

Because the festival runs into the New Year, plenty of visitors pair the Christmas market with Edinburgh’s famous Hogmanay celebrations. If you are staying across the turn of the year, our Hogmanay accommodation guide covers what is on and how to make the most of New Year in the city. Longer festive stays are also better value: our Stay and Save discounts give up to 25% off, as set out on our Stay and Save page, with a best rate guarantee when you book direct.

Beyond the market: Edinburgh’s festive lights

The Christmas Market is the centrepiece, but the whole city dresses up for the season, and it is worth leaving time for more than the stalls. Edinburgh at Christmas has a magic that rewards a wander after dark, when the lights are at their best and the Old Town looks like something from a card. The lights and activities are enjoyable for all the family, especially in the evening, though the central areas do get busier later on.

A few festive favourites to weave into your trip:

• The light trail at the Royal Botanic Garden, a ticketed after-dark walk through illuminated trees and installations, is one of the loveliest evenings out of the season and suits all ages.
• George Street’s festive lights and displays, along with the grand frontage of the Dome, make for a beautiful stroll between the market sites.
• A pantomime or festive show, a great British Christmas tradition, with several theatres putting on productions through December.
• Carol concerts and services in the city’s historic churches, including St Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile.
• Winter walks with a view, up Calton Hill for the city lights or along the Leith waterfront for crisp sea air and quiet after the crowds.

Because so much of the festive fun happens after dark and out in the cold, having a warm, comfortable apartment to return to matters more than usual. Coming home to a spacious living room, putting the heating on and making a hot drink is the perfect end to a day among the lights, and far more relaxing than a small hotel room. It is one more reason a self-catering base suits a Christmas trip so well.

Frequently asked questions

When is the Edinburgh Christmas Market on?

It usually runs from around mid-November to early January, though exact dates change each year and some attractions are ticketed. Check the official Edinburgh’s Christmas website for this year’s programme.

Where is the Edinburgh Christmas Market held?

The main market is traditionally in and around East Princes Street Gardens beneath the Castle, with further festive stalls on George Street and around St Andrew Square.

Where should I stay for the Christmas Market?

Somewhere calm and well connected rather than in the thick of the crowds. From the Leith waterfront, the tram and bus reach the market in around 20 to 30 minutes, and you return each evening to a peaceful, spacious apartment.

Is it easy to get to the market from Leith?

Yes. The tram runs from the Leith area into the centre and sets you down close to the market at St Andrew Square and Princes Street, in around 20 to 30 minutes.

Book your festive base early

The Edinburgh Christmas Market is one of the best festive days out in Britain, and it is even better with a warm, roomy apartment to come home to. Book early to secure your dates, especially for December weekends. Take a look at our two-bedroom apartments, then request a quote with your dates, or call the team on 0131 553 7394.