Leith is having a moment, though anyone who lives here will tell you it always had the goods. Edinburgh’s historic port, sitting where the Water of Leith meets the Firth of Forth, has become one of the most enjoyable parts of the city: a place of old harbour walls and new waterfront, some of Scotland’s finest restaurants, and a character all of its own. If you are looking for things to do in Leith, or wondering whether to base your Edinburgh trip here, this guide covers the lot.
A quick history
Leith was Edinburgh’s gateway to the world for centuries, a working port that brought in wine, timber and trade and sent Scotland out to sea. It was a burgh in its own right until it merged with Edinburgh in 1920, and it has always kept a proud, independent streak. You feel that history everywhere: in the old warehouses along The Shore, the cobbled quaysides, the grand Custom House and the stories in every street name. Regeneration has brought new homes, restaurants and the waterfront developments of recent decades, but Leith has kept its soul through all of it.
The Shore and art space
If you visit one part of Leith, make it The Shore. This is the old heart of the port, where the Water of Leith opens to the sea and the quayside is lined with local pubs, bistros and restaurants in handsome old buildings, giving the area a vibrant feel. It is genuinely lovely for a wander, with boats moored alongside and centuries of history in the stonework. Come for lunch, linger over a coffee, or settle in for dinner at one of the celebrated kitchens here. It is at its best on a bright day when you can sit outside and watch the water.
The food scene
Leith is, quite simply, one of the best places to eat in Scotland. The area has long punched above its weight, with Michelin-starred restaurants sitting comfortably alongside relaxed bistros, harbourside fish and chips, independent cafés and some excellent casual spots. Whatever your budget or mood, you eat well here.
We have gathered the best of it, from special-occasion tables to a good everyday coffee, in our guide to the best restaurants and cafés near Ocean. It is the place to start when you are planning where to eat during your stay.
The Royal Yacht Britannia
Berthed at Ocean Terminal, the Royal Yacht Britannia is Leith’s star attraction and one of the most highly rated things to do in the whole of Scotland. The Royal Family’s former floating home is kept exactly as it was, and a self-guided tour takes you through the State Apartments, the bridge, the engine room and the crew’s quarters, finishing with tea on the Royal Deck overlooking the Forth. Our full visitor guide to the Royal Yacht Britannia covers what to see and how long to allow.
Ocean Terminal and the waterfront
Right beside Britannia, Ocean Terminal is the waterfront’s shopping and leisure hub, with shops, a cinema, cafés and restaurants, and a redeveloped waterfront taking shape around it. It is an easy, weatherproof option for an afternoon, and a handy spot for everyday essentials when you are staying nearby. Our guide to Ocean Terminal and Western Harbour has the full picture.
Beyond the centre, the Western Harbour waterfront is a calm, modern stretch made for a walk with the Firth of Forth beside you and views across to Fife. It is a side of Edinburgh many visitors never find, and one of the real pleasures of staying in Leith.
Beyond the waterfront
There is more to Leith than the harbour. A few things worth seeking out:
- Leith Walk, the long, lively street connecting Leith to the city centre, full of independent shops, delis, cafés and bars, and good for browsing small stores and coffee shops. It is now served by the tram, which runs down to Newhaven.
- Newhaven Harbour, a pretty former fishing village just along the coast, with its little lighthouse and harbour wall, a lovely short stroll from Western Harbour.
- Leith Links, a large green park with a long history, good for a run, a picnic or simply a breather.
- The Water of Leith walkway, a scenic, forest-clad route you can follow away from the sea and right through the city, a peaceful green route past Stockbridge and beyond.
Leith also has a strong creative streak and sense of community, with galleries, studios and a music and cultural scene that has inspired everything from novels to songs. It rewards curiosity, so leave time to wander.
Getting around the city centre
Leith is well connected. From Western Harbour, the number 11 bus runs into the city centre and the tram is a short walk away, with both reaching the middle of Edinburgh in around 20 to 30 minutes. The tram also runs the other way down to Newhaven, handy for exploring the coast. Our transport page has the routes.
For getting further afield, having a car helps, and if you are staying with us there is complimentary underground parking on site. That makes day trips along the East Lothian coast or across the Forth bridges easy to arrange, without paying city-centre parking rates.
Why stay in Leith
Basing yourself in Leith lets you live more like a local than if you base yourself in the busy centre, with better value, more space and the waterfront on your doorstep, yet the sights are only a short ride away. It is especially good for families, longer stays and anyone who has seen the centre before and wants to discover the side of the city locals love, with a strong family feel in many local places. Our location page shows how Western Harbour sits within it all, and our guides to apartments near Ocean Terminal and harbour view apartments go into what staying here is like.
Day trips from the Leith waterfront
One of the quiet advantages of basing yourself in Leith is how easily you can get out of the city as well as into it. The waterfront sits on the coast road, so the shoreline opens up in both directions.
Head east and you reach Portobello, Edinburgh’s cheerful seaside suburb, with its sandy beach and Victorian promenade, then on into East Lothian with its golf links, harbours and pretty towns like North Berwick. Go the other way and you soon reach Newhaven and the route towards the Forth bridges at South Queensferry, where three great bridges span the water side by side. Cross the Forth and the Kingdom of Fife, with its fishing villages and coastal path, is within easy reach for the day.
If you have a car, all of this is straightforward, and staying with us means complimentary underground parking on site so you can come and go as you please. For a fuller run of routes and ideas, our 3 to 5 day Scotland itinerary from Edinburgh maps out some of the best days out from the city. It is this combination, a characterful neighbourhood with the coast and countryside on the doorstep, that makes Leith such a rewarding base.
Frequently asked questions
What is there to do in Leith?
Plenty. Visit the Royal Yacht Britannia, wander The Shore, eat at some of Scotland’s best restaurants, browse Leith Walk and check out Ocean Terminal, and walk the waterfront to Newhaven. It is one of Edinburgh’s most rewarding neighbourhoods.
Is Leith a good area to stay in Edinburgh?
Yes. It offers more space and better value than the centre, a superb food scene and a waterfront setting, all a short bus or tram ride from the main sights.
How do I get from Leith to Edinburgh city centre?
The number 11 bus and the tram both reach the centre in around 20 to 30 minutes from Western Harbour.
Is Leith good for families?
Very. It is calmer than the centre, with parks, the waterfront, a cinema and Britannia, plus spacious apartments and easy parking for a relaxed weekend stay.
Stay in the heart of Leith
The best way to get to know Leith is to stay here. Our spacious two-bedroom apartments in Western Harbour put the waterfront, the restaurants and Britannia within easy reach, with free parking and a quick link into the city. Request a quote with your dates, or call the team on 0131 553 7394.