Edinburgh, the Scottish capital, is a compact, highly walkable city, but where you choose to stay still shapes your whole trip. The right base can mean shorter journeys, better food on your doorstep and a calmer end to each day. The wrong one can mean noise, crowds and a hole in your budget from parking and premiums. This guide gives an honest look at the best areas to stay in Edinburgh, and takes an even-handed view of the choice many visitors wrestle with: the buzz of the city centre, or the character of Leith and the waterfront, since different neighborhoods offer different atmospheres and experiences, and the best place to stay in Edinburgh depends on your personal preferences.
A quick tour of Edinburgh’s main areas
The Old Town
The Old Town is Edinburgh’s historical center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Edinburgh of postcards: the Royal Mile linking Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, the closes and the history. Staying here puts you in the thick of it, which is why it is often the best area for first-time visitors, with most attractions within walking distance. The trade-offs are real, though. It is the busiest and often the priciest part of the city, streets can be noisy well into the evening, especially during festival season, and parking is difficult and expensive. It also has many historic pubs popular with locals. Wonderful for a short, sightseeing-heavy trip if you do not mind the crowds.
The New Town
Elegant, with Georgian architecture and a broader Georgian and Neoclassical character, the New Town is a little calmer than the Old Town and has Princes Street, while George Street stands out for excellent dining options as well as some of the best shopping in the city. It is central without being quite as frantic, though it still carries a city-centre premium and the same parking headaches. It is also a quieter location than Old Town, with luxury hotels and often slightly cheaper hotels than Old Town. A good middle ground for those who want to be central but prefer a bit more polish and space.
Leith and the waterfront
Down by the Firth of Forth, Leith is the area that has changed most and won the most fans. Once the city’s working port, Leith has a rich history and has transformed into a vibrant waterfront district with one of Edinburgh’s strongest food scenes, the old harbour charm of The Shore, the Royal Yacht Britannia and the wide open waterfront at Western Harbour. It is known for trendy bars and restaurants, especially along the waterfront. Its lively restaurant and bar scene attracts locals as well as visitors. It is calmer and better value than the centre, with more space for your money, and it is still an easy ride into town. This is where Ocean Serviced Apartments is based, and our location page shows how it sits.
Stockbridge, the West End and the south
Beyond the centre, Stockbridge is a village within the city, a village-like favourite with a bohemian local vibe, a lovely Sunday market, vintage shops and pubs, and independent shops, about a 15-minute walk from New Town. The West End is smart and handy for the theatres and Haymarket station, with elegant Victorian buildings and more of local life. Bruntsfield and Morningside to the south are leafy and residential, known for leafy streets and Victorian architecture, and popular with those who want a local, lived-in feel. All are pleasant, though most visitors weighing up a first or second trip come back to the central-versus-Leith question.
Leith vs the city centre: an honest comparison
Both are good choices, and the best one depends on what you want from the trip. Here is the fair version of each side.
The case for the city centre
• Everything on foot. From this central location, you have easy access to all the top sights, with the Castle, the Royal Mile, the National Museum and Waverley Station all within walking distance.
• Right in the atmosphere, especially during the festival, when the centre is the stage, with a lively atmosphere around places like Grassmarket close to Edinburgh Castle.
• Late nights made easy, with bars, theatres and restaurants on the doorstep.
The costs: higher prices, more noise, smaller rooms for the money, and parking that is either unavailable or expensive. If you are driving, the centre fights you at every turn. Central hotels are ideally located for visitors arriving by train via Edinburgh Waverley train station.
The case for Leith and the waterfront
• More space and better value. Your budget stretches further, which for a two-bedroom apartment means room to actually relax, with budget friendly choices compared with many hotels in Edinburgh in the centre.
• A calmer end to the day. Sea air and a quiet waterfront feel more restful after a long day, while still being a stone’s throw from the tram for easy public transport into town.
• Excellent food. Leith is known for acclaimed restaurants, including restaurant Martin Wishart, as our guide to the best restaurants and cafés near Ocean shows.
• A real attraction on the doorstep in the Royal Yacht Britannia, plus Ocean Terminal for shops and a cinema.
• Free parking is possible. On-site parking, rare in the centre, comes as standard at Ocean.
If you want a similar local atmosphere with cheaper hotels, Haymarket is another option outside the city centre.
The trade-off is honest: you are not a five-minute walk from the Castle. But you are a short bus or tram ride away, which for most trips is a price well worth paying for the space, calm and value you gain.
How far is Leith from the centre, really?
This is the question that decides it for most people, so here is the straight answer. For visitors arriving via Edinburgh Airport, the main gateway to Edinburgh Scotland, Western Harbour is still straightforward to reach: the number 11 bus runs from near the apartments and the tram is a short walk away, with both reaching central Edinburgh in around 20 to 30 minutes. It is a simple, frequent journey, not an expedition, with easy bus, tram, and rail links via Edinburgh Waverley Station to other major cities in Scotland. Our transport page has the details.
For a lot of visitors, that 20-odd minutes is the whole trick: you get the best of both worlds, and the setup also works well for trips that combine the Scottish capital with other major cities. Days out sightseeing in the centre, evenings back on the peaceful waterfront, and none of the city-centre parking stress. If you have a car, this balance is especially valuable, since you can leave it parked free at the apartment and take the bus or tram into town, while still keeping access to major cities.
Which area suits which trip?
• First-time, sightseeing-focused short break: the Old Town suits first-time visitors best, while New Town can be a quieter base with some of the best luxury hotels if you want everything on foot and do not mind the crowds and cost.
• Families: Leith and the waterfront, for the space, the cinema and Britannia, the supermarket next door and the free parking; its hotel and apartment options often give better value and more space than the centre.
• Longer stays and relocations: Leith, comfortably. More room, better value and a genuine neighbourhood feel matter more the longer you are here, though Haymarket can also work for a more authentic stay with cheaper hotels.
• Return visitors: Leith, to see the side of Edinburgh the first trip usually misses.
• Foodies: Leith gives you some of the best kitchens in Scotland within walking distance.
For practical budget-friendly choices, Kickass Greyfriars Hostel is a budget-friendly accommodation in Old Town, Ibis Edinburgh Centre South is one of the cheapest options, and Dalkeith Road has affordable bed-and-breakfast options.
If you have already decided on a first visit itinerary, our top 10 things to do in Edinburgh will help you plan the days, and for the lesser-known corners, our local’s guide to Edinburgh’s hidden gems points beyond the obvious.
Why we think the waterfront wins for most stays
We will be honest about our own bias, but the reasoning is sound. For anything longer than a quick sightseeing dash, the waterfront offers a perfect location if you want more space, calm, and value rather than a fully central base: space, calm, great food, a real attraction nearby, free parking and a quick link into the city. You lose a little proximity to the Castle, but gain a great location for a quieter stay everywhere else. Our guide to Ocean Terminal and Western Harbour paints the fuller picture of what living on the waterfront is like.
A note on the festival season
August is a special case worth planning around. During the Fringe and the International Festival, the city centre becomes the stage for the biggest arts festival in the world, which is exhilarating but intense. Accommodation in the Old Town and New Town books up early and prices climb steeply, streets are crowded late into the night, and the buzz that draws people in can also wear thin if you need to sleep and reset.
This is when a waterfront base really comes into its own. Staying in Leith during the festival means you are a short bus or tram ride from every venue, in the middle of it all by day, yet you return each night to a calm apartment by the sea rather than a noisy city-centre street. You get the festival without living inside it around the clock, and often at better value too. If August is your window, book well ahead wherever you choose, and consider the waterfront for the sanity a quiet evening brings.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best area to stay in Edinburgh? It depends on your trip. Visiting Edinburgh is relatively easy because the city is compact, but the right area still depends on your priorities. The Old Town and New Town are best for first-time sightseeing on foot, while Leith and the waterfront offer more space, better value and a calmer base with quick transport into the centre.
Is Leith a good place to stay in Edinburgh? Yes. Leith has become one of the city’s most enjoyable areas, with a superb food scene, trendy bars, the Royal Yacht Britannia, the waterfront restaurant scene and better value than the centre, all a short bus or tram ride from the middle of town.
How do I get from Leith to Edinburgh city centre? The number 11 bus and the tram both reach the centre in around 20 to 30 minutes from Western Harbour, and both also make it easy to connect onward to Waverley Station.
Is it easier to park in Leith than the city centre? Much easier. City-centre parking is limited and expensive, whereas Ocean Serviced Apartments in Western Harbour includes complimentary underground parking on site.
Where should I stay in Edinburgh for a more local vibe? For a more residential feel, look at Stockbridge, Bruntsfield, Morningside or Haymarket depending on your budget and preferred pace.
Find your base on the waterfront
If the case for Leith has won you over, we would love to host you. Our spacious two-bedroom apartments in Western Harbour are ideally located on the waterfront for a calmer stay with quick links to the centre, with the space and convenience many visitors look for in a hotel. Request a quote with your dates, or call the team on 0131 553 7394 to talk through the best fit for your trip.
